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● the guest, priest or layman, was served ciga▓rettes and a tiny cup of coffee.Fr▓ankness is the key to t

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arak saeed,” glided into thei●r slippers and departed. La●ter in the day I made, with my host, t

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eet, a fez perch▓ed on his head.The conve

rsatio▓n soon turned to things American. “Man●y years ago,” translated the elde▓st son, on behalf of his fathe

r, 〃埌I began to wonder why, by the b

eard of▓ the prophet, faranchees come from a great, rich● country like America to travel in a mise

rable● land like ours.” A long dis?/p>

坰ertation on the joys and advant▓ages of globe-trotting drew from th●e former sheik only an exclamation of “M●’a

baraf!” (I don’t underst●and). “A

n American who was in Nazaret▓h long ago,” he went on, by▓ mouth of offspring, “told me a strange story.● I did n

ot believe him, for it cannot● be true.He s

aid that in America people b●uy dogs!” and the mere suggestion of so lud●icrous a transaction sent the?/p>

?assembled group into paroxysms of laug

ht●er. “They do,” I replied. 166Th●e pompous ex-mayor fell into such convulsio▓ns of merriment that h


is rotund face▓ grew the color of burni

shed copper. “BUY d▓ogs” roared his sons, in a chorus of

the c●apa

several l●anguages.“But what for”

Nev●er having settled that question▓ entirely to my own sat

cious diva

isfaction, I parr●ied it with another:

“How do you get a d●og if you want one” “W 癃w—w—why

n, and, wh

,” answered the eldest son, wipi●ng th

e tears from his eyes, “if anyon▓e wants a dog he tells some

en all wer

one else and ▓they give him one; but wh

o ever WANTS ▓a dog” Once the guest of the ▓better-class

e firmly s

Arab, the trave●ler is almost certain

to be rel●ayed from one city to another through an endless●

eat▓ed, t


chain of the friends of his orig●inal host.I had announced my inten▓tion of leaving Nazareth in the mor▓ning.The ex-mayor, after attempting to fright●en me out of my projec

t by the usual b▓ear-stories, wrote me four letters of introduct▓ion. “Without these letters,” he expla●ined, “you would not dare stay in Gin●een or Nablous, for my friends are t▓he only Christians and those ●are very bad towns.My friends in Jerus▓alem and Jaffa—if you ever get there aliv▓e—may be able to help you fin●d work.” CHAPTER VIII THE WILD●S OF PALESTINE The sun, rising red and ▓clear next morning, put to rout even t●he protests of Ne

hmé and Shukry● against my departure on Sunday.Elias ●sorrowfully said farewell at the mission gate.▓ The teachers, carrying betwe

en them a packa▓ge at which they cast mysterious glances no▓w and then, conducted me to the foot▓ of the Nazarene range.Pointing out● a guiding mountain peak that rose above● Gineen, far across the trackless plain ●of Esdraelon, they bade me good▓-by almost tearfully, thrust the package in▓to my hands, and turned back up the mountain ▓pass.Half certain of what the bundle cont●ained, I did not open it until noonday ●overtook me, w

ell out on the plain.Inside was ●a goodly supply of gkebis, oran●ges, native cheeses, and black olives; and at t▓he

bottom, a bundle of home-made cigarette●s, and a package of “arabee,” w▓ith a book of papers. Lat▓e afternoon brought me to the ●edge of Esdraelon.A veritable garden spo●t, covered with graceful palms● and waving pomegranates and perfumed with t●he fragrance of orange and lemon groves, cov▓ered the lower slope of the peak that had b●een my phare.Back of the garden stood the▓ fanatical town of Gineen.The appea▓rance of a defenseless unbelieve▓r in their midst aroused its inhabitants to scow▓ls and c



urses, and a few stones from a g▓roup of youngsters at a corner of the bazaar ●rattled in the streets behind me.My le▓tter was addressed in native script●.The squatting shopkeeper t▓o whom I displayed it a

ttempted to scowl m▓e out of countenance, then, r▓ecalling his duty of hospitali▓ty towards whoever should enter his ●dwelling, called a passing urchin and, mumb●ling a few word

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s to him, bade me follow.● The urchin mounted the sloping mar▓ke

t-place, made several unexpected ▓turnings, and, pointing out a large ▓house surrounded by a forbidding stone w▓all, scampered away like one accustomed to ▓take no chances of future damnation by ling▓ering at the entrance to a Chr▓istian hotbed. I clanged the hea●vy knocker until the sound e▓choed up and down the adjoining str▓eets, and, receiving no response, ●sat down on the curb.